The Savile Row Tailor

Summer Suit.....

                             

Here is another example of my tailoring. This is a summer suit, light grey cloth with a off white stripe. Jetted cross pockets, no flaps and two side vents.

(Please click on image to enlarge )

Side bodys or fish cuts?

Here are two ways to cut the fore parts of a coat. The first the old school way with one or two fish cuts, the second with the more modern side body. With the side body it is possible to achieve much more shape through the waist. The fish cuts are sewn out at both ends and the side body seam is sewn through the sleeve and the bottom of the coat. Both ways can be made into my softer tailoring.                                    ( please click on image to enlarge)

The Savile Row Alliance.........

I am very pleased to inform you that the real Savile Row bespoke tailors most of who are, practical hands on Master Tailors who have worked in the Savile Row community all their lives, have now joined together under one body the Savile Row Alliance and are working as one to keep the true tailoring tradition and craftsmanship alive. We do not sell inferior ready to wear suits from the "Row" that just carry a Savile Row label. There has been four meetings so far which I have attended, I am so pleased that all the tailors feel the same as I do, as I explain in one of my last posts "Savile Row on T.V." I will of course keep you informed of any events coming up with the (S.R.A.) I also look forward to our web-site that will list all the tailors that has been judged to make the Savile Row grade, and a list of the criteria that we all have to meet. We have just had our first write up so please take a look at the Style Magazine.

Clients own cloth.......

This is a special one off cloth made through my friends at The London Lounge.

Which I have made up into a three piece suit for a great client of mine who lives in the U.S.A.

Please take into mind that this coat has not been made for the tailoring dummy. (Click on image to enlarge.)

And yes all the checks do match up !

Dinner Jacket....

Here's another example of my work. This is a one button single breasted Dinner Jacket with peak lapels, the facings are in a fine corded silk.

New York Trip June 2008.....

I travel to New York to offer my clients who live there the very best of service.

I have planed trips for February, June & October 2008.

I will be staying in New York at The Helmsley Carlton House 

680 Madison Avenue, Between 61st & 62nd Street

I would be delighted to meet up with you to discuss future commissions.

If you would like to make an appointment, or would just like to be placed on my mailing list so I can inform you of my next trip please e-mail me.

I share the Hotel suite with Mr Paul Davies, The London Shoemaker. 

from : Monday the 9th - Wednesday 11th of June,

Whilst in the U.S.A:

It is always best to call me on my cell phone +(1) 646 241 9039.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Steven

Savile Row on T.V.

As I am sure by reading my blog you would know that last week I was away on a business trip. On my return to the shop I hear all the goings on in the Row. There are I believe 3 T.V programmes coming out about some of the tailors in Savile Row. well where do I begin!

The first program was subject to The Savile Row Association and Abercombie & Fitch. What a pairing, It seems that the global firm thats sell t-shirts and shorts and have half dressed men on the door to attract teenage girls would be in some way competition to us tailors. What nonsense. I thought the idea for the Savile Row bespoke association was to keep new so called ready to wear tailors from opening up in the row and selling inferior suits say for £200. ( Not handmade English bespoke suits.) Unfortunately It's had the opposite effect. I was disgusted to see Ravi of Anthony Hewitt Tailors being told he was no longer a Savile Row tailor as he has moved 110 yards down the road! (to reduce his rent.) Surely we must hold on to the proper bespoke tailors and not kick them when they are down.

Then if it could not get any worse Mr M Henderson M.D. of Gieves And Hawkes and I believe head of this club explains that Edward Sexton can not be part of the association because he now works to far away from the Row, this is one of the best ever cutters to work on the Row. I think of him as the rock and roll of tailoring, the best in his field. I have always looked up to tailors like him for inspiration. Just look at what he has done for Savile Row, the clients he has made for and is still making for, also look at his great sense of style.   

Savile Row has always been the area not just the Street (the golden mile.) How dare these people, some of whom have never picked up a pair of tailoring shears in their lives and have no idea about the nuts and bolts of the trade. How can they say who can and who cannot be referred to as a Savile Row Tailor.They have completely failed to understand the love and passion that we, the working tailors have, after completing long and hard apprenticeships with iconic firms.

If you have learnt your trade on Savile Row and then moved to the surrounding area to escape the high rents, and work from there every day ( not just popping in to the Row once a fortnight to receive the Savile Row status) I cannot see any difference at all. Any tailoring house is only as good as their cutters and tailors. You can receive the same high quilaty suit at a lesser price just simply because you are not paying the landlords high prices, and paying out for extra front shop staff.

All my life the older tailors have been great to me helping me through my tailoring journey. I now feel there is a 'them' and 'us' feel around on the Row caused by some of the bigger firms. I also feel some companies are being run by people that do not understand tailoring as I do, and I am at a loss to understand their superior attitude which is dividing the tailoring community. I really wish that we could all sit down and talk about this to help and move Savile Row forward together.

I can't want for the third program!

I really do hope it shows off this time more of the skilled craftmen and some of the suits that make Savile Row what it is.

I am sure you have not heard the last of this, so watch this space !!!!!

I love New York City ...

As always I had a great time last week visiting my clients who live across the pond. Apart from the business that was completed, I was lucky to travel there when the New York Giants where playing in the super bowl final. Me and some friends watched the game (and what a game it was) in a great sports bar on Sunday evening. It's the first time I had seen an American Football game all the way through, there was a great atmosphere especially in the last minute when the Giants scored and went ahead to win the game.

Then if that wasn't enough I received an invitation, as it was Fashion week to the Prada party down town in Soho, this again turn in to unforgettable evening.

Below me at the Prada Party, I love New York City.

Double Breasted............

I have been cutting a few double breasted suits lately and thought I may show off a couple, first a classic style six button, (four to work and two for show), the lapels are pointed upwards towards the shoulder ends, straight x pockets with an out ticket pocket and an out breast pocket slanting the right way. A very classic D.B.Jacket.

                                                                                                                                                            

Second is a double breasted jacket with a difference: The x pockets are slanted but the flaps are back to front the out breast pocket slanting the wrong way and the lapels cut horizontal.

Both jackets are cut with my soft shoulders,comfortable sleeves and front canvas that I prefer, all sewn by hand. This goes to show that you can have any style suit you like within my soft tailored house style. If you wish to help design your suit I will be delighted to make it.

Exciting times in Japan........

I travelled to Japan, (Tokyo) last week to open my Silver label made to measure concession, exclusively for the Japanese market in the North Tower of the brand new Daimaru shopping centre. Myself and the team found ourselves very busy over the two days in the shop, with lots of orders and enquires. Myself and my girlfriend had a great time as it was our first trip to Tokyo, we found the people, food and culture very intriguing.We look forward to returning to Japan next year.

Please click on image to enlarge

Financial Times: The Softly Softly Approach........

I was quoted in this weekends Financial Times. Thought it may be of some interest to you, The softly softly approach. I see that some other tailoring firms are now coming round to the softer tailoring that I have been practising all my life. Well for the last 18 years!!! I truly believe the Scholte cut that I specialise in, is the best soft tailoring found any where in the world.

The Reflective Coat......

Here is the car coat I have made for one of my clients. The yarn is reflective as you can see by the photos below, when the light (photo flash) hits the cloth the check lights up. This is the first coat I have made up from this type of cloth Dashing Tweed. Myself and the client both think that his coat is fantastic. I have one more that I am working on at the moment in a different pattern, these cloths are truly unique.

Please click on image to enlarge

Harris Tweed Anyone ?.........................

These Harris Tweed patterens are one off designs. Each one is carefully selected, then warped on a wooden warping frame. These are woven on a single width loom. 

If you would like me to send you a small pattern please drop me an e-mail.

      

Please click on image to enlarge

Clearing my cutting before my U.S.A. trip

Here I am cutting away as hard as I can to clear my pile of cutting before my travels. I hope to put every thing in hand with the tailors to keep them busy while I am away.

I also hope that on my return from the U.S.A. the shop will  be back to its best. (after the flood) We are still waiting for the carpet to go down and the wooded floor in the shop to be sanded and polished. This has taken much longer than the two weeks first quoted by the builders, in fact it is now over four months. If it took me this long to make a suit I think I would give up. Saying that, when the shop is completed it will look great.

If the builders in the shop are any thing to go by I am not sure if London will be ready for the Olympics 2012. We will just have to put it back a year or so!

A load of Flannel.....

Here's one of my favourite cloths. The J &J Minnis flannel collection. The coat here is cut as a three button roll through, straight cross pockets with an out ticket pocket, and finished off with turn back cuffs. A little heavy in weight for the moment (13/14oz) but great for Autumn. This cloth also comes in grey and brown, and looks great made up into a single or double breasted suit. Its also great to work on, makes up really well.

Steven Hitchcock Sliver Cufflinks......

   

This is my new collection of hand made sterling silver cufflinks. They are made by Greg Dennis the Silver Smith of London. The design has my Steven Hitchcock Savile Row Logo and are all hand made with a London Silver hallmark. They are £85 a set, plus vat.

Water water every where, Drama in the shop........

On arriving to the shop on Tuesday after the bank holiday weekend. I was horrified to see the shop had been flooded. The water was still coming through the ceiling, all over my cutting board ,and all over the floor even going straight through to the basement beneath me. This has caused me complete chaos to the start of my week. Both the carpet and the force ceiling have now been removed. The shop has lots of workmen within it trying very hard to get it back looking its best.

There where some suits that had been damaged by the water, but don't worry if you have a suit going through with me at the moment. I have already informed all the clients who have been affected.

It will take around two weeks to get the shop back to normal. I would like you to know that I am still trading, my friends in Savile Row have been great letting me use there cutting boards and fitting rooms. A special thanks to Pat and Andy from Davies and Son I also found out that Burt makes the best tea on the row. If you are thinking of visit me in the next couple of weeks please call first for me to arrange a fitting room. 0207 287 2492. My computer did not stand up well to the water so I can not be contacted during the day by e-mail, at the moment. It will have to wait until I return home in the evening to my computer there. Sorry for this inconvenience, I am sure it will all come together very soon.