We are well and truly embedded in our new shop. Patterns, shears, straight edges and all the caboodle are strewn about our boards, draws and shelves. All the confusing technology of broadband, card machines and the tangled wires that seem to multiply overnight, are kept at bay in a corner! All out of the way, so the old art of tailoring can be the spotlight event.
Just like the beautiful finishing you see on bespoke clothes, we have had a cleaver and talented sign writer effortlessly hand paint the Steven Hitchcock logo onto our window at 11 Saint George Street. It is the perfect finishing for our new window of opportunity.
The finished window is wonderful, and the mannequin with the stormy sea blue herringbone tweed sports coat stands proud to have been made by Steven Hitchcock.
The clock is ticking, and we are packing up all the glorious cloth bunches, carefully folding and packing away the fittings to be sent back to Blighty.
The trip has been a hit, there have been a lot of creative ideas with style and colours. So for the next trip there will be a riot of sartorial-ism waiting to be tried on!
We are looking forward to going home to London, letting the jet lag do its worst, and starting some serious work in our new shop. http://www.thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/2013/04/and-now-moving-on
Toodle pip Manhattan, missing you already. See you in October!
The torrential rain came down on Manhattan this morning, and more is expected! However, the rain paused just long enough for a quick photo!
Here is Steven in a black mohair suit. Mohair! In the Rain! Yes, Steven is asking for trouble! Mohair is notorious for absorbing moisture, either humid or dampness. Due to the wiry nature of the fibre, the moisture in the air causes the fibre to crinkle a little. This is not permanent, once the fibre dries, it goes back to its normal state. So, if you know there is going to be an irriguous day, avoid wearing your mohair!
Earlier this year Steven lent a three piece suit to The museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. ( F.I.T ) It has been beautifully displayed, hiding the damages of moths and general aging. http://www.fitnyc.edu/13666.asp
The suit is from 1935 and actually made by Anderson and Sheppard. When Steven worked at Anderson and Sheppard, in 1995 A&S needed to clear some of their rails that were storing old suits, unwanted suits and pigs. ( suits that just didnt fit! ) The staff at the time were offered first choice of the rails, before the remaining suits were sent to the Salvation Army. http://www.salvationarmy.org.uk/
Steven saw the 3 piece tweed shooting shoot, and thought it very stylish. But when he looked inside at the name label, he couldnt believe his eyes! The label read P. Sheppard. Steven imediatley chose the suit, because he didnt want to lose such an important piece of history. He couldnt, and still cant quite believe that the suit nearly got given away.
The FIT were interested in the suit, because it is from the 1930′s. They are planning to host an exhibition next year, which will include this suit.
With this pink and blue windowpane jacketing from the Sunbeam range by Harrisons of Edinburgh, you can do only one thing. Enjoy yourself!
This fabulous colour is so playful, everyone who sees it stops what they are doing, glance again and then smile. This cloth is pure pleasure. It is slightly too indulgent, but as the song goes, ‘ The years go by, as quick as a wink. Enjoy yourself, enjoy yourself, its later than you think.’ So, there is the hint. Wear something a little different, while you still have the time!
Due to Sunbeams composition ( Merino wool and silk ) and a very open weave, it takes a very skilled tailor to cut and make the cloth into a beautiful coat. Extra time and care is taken to make sure the cloth is perfectly marked up and put together. The tailor has to make sure the tension on his machine is just right, otherwise the cloth can look strangled or pathetic. It has to managed just right.
Mirage, is the new sumptuous bunch from Harrisons of Edinburgh. http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/
This collection of silk gloss cloth is made up of a mixture of wool, silk and linen. It is a jacketing bunch, which has a variety of weaves and glamorous checks. The colours are eye catching and summer is not too far away, so a perfect choice for your next summer jacket.
The silk content produces the gentle gloss finish, the linen provides a smooth texture and the wool provides a soft drape. The combination has been finely tuned to produce these unique cloths, with the idea of summer and lazy evenings in mind.
Here is a closer look at Stevens velvet slippers. His initials ( SH ) have been carefully embroidered on the front and they have a beautiful quilted lining inside, of the same yellow colour. Steven strictly wears them indoors. However, I have seen a more keen type of gentleman wear velvet slippers outdoors!
Here are some of the suit fittings we are trying on this trip, and Steven wearing his new Foster and Son slippers.
Who said Sunday was the day of rest?
Today has been back to back fittings. The pins are blunt and the chalk is spent. Tweed, flannel and worsted’s were on the list today. Moleskin trousers in creamy brown and linen waist coats all tried on, and all met with pleasing smiles.
With confidence in so much abundance, more orders have been taken.
Sunday hasn’t been a day of rest, it has been a great day! Blah, who needs rest on a Sunday?!
Toodle pip, Celia.
The most exciting tweeds of the year, or of 150 years is the Harrison’s of Edinburgh anniversary tweeds. http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/
To celebrate Harrison’s 150 years of production, they have produced 10 exquisite British tweeds. The beauty of the tweeds, is that they have been made using all British wool. The wool has been carefully selected from 5 different British breeds of sheep. All with their own unique properties to enhance the texture and quality of the anniversary tweeds.
The tweeds are an easy 14 ozs, with colours of high clarity and were inspired from Harrison’s original cloth pattern books. The tweeds have a soft drape, but still have the bounce and slight raffish feel of classic tweed.
My favourite from the collection, is the brown herringbone with the double green window pane check. An elegant shooting suit with plus 4′s and a moleskin waistcoat in pea green, would look marvelous!!
The grey tweed with the creamy flecks of colour, would look great as a two button sports coat. Perfect for spring. It would look great with mustard corduroys or cream twill trousers.
All these tweeds are all versatile, due to their colours and manageable texture. If you can not find an occasion to wear one of these tweeds, then you need to find an occasion!