The Savile Row Tailor, Steven Hitchcock

New York, New York…………

Steven — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:03:29 +0000

……………And yes, as the title suggests, this is my 2nd trip of the year. I have been told by Simon Crompton who is out there at the moment, that the weather is great, so I can leave my Sou’wester and Wellington boots at Heathrow Airport. Even though it is my 11th year, the week before leaving is always the same. I am going through an extensive check list to ensure that the clients marry up with the suits and jackets, appointments have been made, the Benjamin Hotel have a list of my requirements, the travelling sets are ready, the Visa is still valid and all manner of other tasks, which if not ticked off, could spell disaster. Despite all this, as ever, I am really looking forward to my week, and will be bringing some great new cloths and some exciting linings, which include the Liberty print. I have some great ideas for the Liberty print which I will save for New York. Having spoken to fellow tailors who have been to New York recently, it would appear that there is a great buzz around at the moment and I am hoping that I will be part of it. I am bringing some wonderful Jackets and Suits with me and pictured below is a Peak Lapel, Single Breasted Jacket, and if you look carefully, you can see that it will be worn with a double breasted vest. The cloth is a Henry Lesser 11/12 oz.

Lilac check Jacket with matching flower hole….

Steven — Fri, 04 May 2012 13:01:30 +0000

Steven Hitchcock Bespoke

The Chaps Don’t think it’s Cricket……………..

Steven — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 13:20:30 +0000

…………….And I am inclined to agree with them. I was walking along Savile Row yesterday when I came across demonstrators from The Chap Magazine protesting against Abercrombie & Fitch opening a children’s shop at No 3 Savile Row, which incidentally is where The Beatles gave their final performance on the rooftop on January 30th 1969. I know that time waits for no man, but this does have implications for Savile Row tailors who still practice the art of bespoke tailoring, and I am genuinely concerned that it is becoming a threat to peoples livelihoods. I work in Savile Row, and as I measure and cut all the patterns myself, am able to keep my overheads at a minimum. I do not know how much Amercrombie & Fitch will pay for the shop, but as a guess this will become the new benchmark for Savile Row and I believe they have an unfair advantage. Having just browsed their website I noticed that their Hoodies sell for around £100 and I would imagine with their buying power, the mark up is eye watering. I like to think that I support local people because all my suits and jackets are made locally, and this is the case with a number of other Savile Row Tailors. If we are driven out of Savile Row there are a number of support trades that would suffer as well, and I am sure that Abercrombie & Fitch will not provide work for them. Gieves and Hawkes also made the press this week, and for all the wrong reasons. They have the most famous address in Savile Row – No 1, and Hawkes has been there since 1911, but it would appear that all is not well as they have not made a profit since 2005 and have now been taken over by a Hong Kong company who are planning to sell their suits in China. I am absolutely determined to carry on the tradition of Savile Row bespoke tailoring, but I just hope that I am not ‘the last man standing’.

Saturday Morning and a Morning Suit….

Steven — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:59:43 +0000

…….. and no I am not repeating myself. Making a Morning Suit is not an unusual occurence but me working on a Saturday is. Due to pressure of work Saturday in Savile Row is becoming the norm for me, but last weekend was an absolute pleasure as a long standing client came in for the final fitting for his Morning Suit. It is a 3 piece with a D/B vest and brace cut trousers that he commissioned for his wedding, but it will also be perfect for Ascot this year where he is hoping to recover some of the wedding expenses!! He arrived with all the accessories and very kindly allowed me to to take photographs for this post.

Steven Hitchcock Bespoke

W. Bill’s black & white tweed………

Steven — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:39:39 +0000

Steven Hitchcock Bespoke

12 oz Scabal wool and cashmere, glen check, S.B. Peak lapel…

Steven — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 14:09:08 +0000

Steven Hitchcock Bespoke

Blue birdseye 13 oz classic…………

Steven — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 15:04:34 +0000

Summer Time…….

Steven — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 15:02:43 +0000

…..and this is how it feels in London at the moment, and I think that Spring has passed us by. They say that when the clocks change we leap into Spring, but this year I think we are leaping into Summer, and one of my clients is doing his leaping with a new very lightweight wool jacket which is pictured below. It is a buggy back with piped edges that is light as a feather and ideal for the warmer months.

Up or Down…………….

Steven — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 16:52:30 +0000

…..That is often one of the questions regarding a Polo Coat. It has evolved over the years and many people have different interpretations, and I am one of them. My client wanted to wear it without a jacket underneath, and I must say that when he tried it on it in the shop, it positively oozed style. I have shown pictures of the collar up and down, so you can make up your own mind.

A Linen Jacket with a Difference……….

Steven — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 15:42:46 +0000

Please click on image to see more. This linen jacket has been cut by myself with the upside down pockets, which make the look of the jacket a little different. The idea behind this is both the out-breast pocket and the shoulder line are the same angle.